Kanawha Trail Club

Yesterday we hiked 12miles from Bridge of Orchy to Kings House over Rannoch Moor. This moor is about as wildernessy as one gets in Britain, but the States (obviously) have many places more remote. But hikers– put this on your list! Rannoch Moor is breathtakingly beautiful with vistas, mountains, burns (their name for creeks,) history and clear fresh air. I still have not hiked in the unrelenting Scotish rain I expected and our dry days may be one reason I’m having such a great time. It did get drizzly for about a half mile yesterday — we had ample time to don pack covers and waterproofs as we could see the rain curtain advaning across the glen towards us.

Kings House Hotel is the only building in sight here — it is at the mouth of Glen Coe at the top of the Moor. Kings House was originally built to help the Hanover Kings keep the rebellious Jacobite Scots in line. This hotel is quite old,with confusing twisting halls and beautiful lounges. Long now a hotel sepcializing in hikers, bikers and climbers, the hotel has everything their clientel could want — even your choice of showers or hot baths! Tea in the room, free internet access, a pub/restaurant with through hiker fare such as (my choice last night) venison vegetable pie (for my allergy they omitted the crust on top and instead gave me potatoes.) An above the bar is a list of dozens of Scotch whiskey brands and years and the prices for a “wee dram” of that variety. Mary Beth bought a bit of an island whiskey and explained to us all as we sampled how island whiskeys are a bit smokier and tarter then mainland whiskeys. Had I had more energy (or £s) I would have explored more varieties. But after a spectacular 12 miles I headed off to bed with my tummy full of venison and vegies, wine, whiskey and some dessert thingee(clannigan?) full of cream and strawberries. I don’t think I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow — more like 30 seconds later.

Our fellow clentele look as though they popped out of the Royal Geographic Society — lots of middle aged(or older) types who speak at surrounding tables of the munroes they bagged today or plan to attempt tomorrow, plants, animals, conservation issues, etc. (Note: a “munro” is a mountain of a certain height in Scotland. Ascending a munro is called “bagging” it.)

We met a party of 4 who are now 2 days from completing a Lands End (Cornwall) to John O’Groats (tip of Scotland) cycling tour. They were from Fresno and are the first fellow Yanks I’ve encountered since London. Their accent seemed weird to me at first. Very international — lots of Belgians, Dutch and Germans making this hike.

Off to breakfast now — another full Scotish breakast for me: blood pudding, eggs,sausage AND bacon, a griled half tomato and baked beans. And tea. Lots of tea.

Cheeio,

Gina